22 Hours on Japan’s Snowiest First-Class Sleeper Train | 🇯🇵 Sunrise Express

Board the Sunrise Izumo sleeper train from Tokyo Station, heading towards Izumo. I managed to snag a 'single deluxe' room, which is notoriously hard to book, just two days before departure. This first-class car, car 11, is on the upper deck. The total fare from Tokyo to Izumo is ¥29,290. The train is known as a 'moving hotel' and is Japan's only daily operating sleeper train. Make sure to grab a shower ticket early, as it's a tradition for them to sell out quickly. The train departs Tokyo Station at 10 PM, offering a fleeting glimpse of Tokyo Tower before you settle in for the night.

Despite the freezing hail and wind, I made it to Izumo Taisha Shrine, which feels like the origin of all shrines. The highlight is the massive shimenawa, a rope made of rice straw, measuring 13m long and weighing 5.2t—the largest in Japan. It's a tradition for me to visit this shrine as my first of the year. You can even take sand as a souvenir from a mini shrine at the back. I also bought a 'relationship card' playing card as a souvenir, hoping for new connections.

For lunch in Izumo, I opted for the tempura set, which included a tempura bowl and miso soup. Izumo is famous for its soba, and after not having it for half a year, I was pleasantly surprised by how good it was. It's a must-try when you're in the area.

I checked into Dormy Inn Izumo, which I consider arguably the best business hotel in Japan. The rooms are clean and calming, but the real draw is the bathhouse. They offer indoor and outdoor baths, a sauna, and a cooling bath. I even managed to take a morning bath, though the outdoor bath was a bit cold. They also offer a complimentary ramen dinner (which I sadly missed) and free Yakult. The lounging corner with manga and free massage chairs is a fantastic bonus, feeling like an international first-class lounge.

From Izumo, I took the Yakumo Limited Express towards Okayama. This train, brand new in 2023, has a nice, cozy interior with a pale green palette, tables, power outlets, and onboard Wi-Fi. It's quite speedy and was relatively empty. Along the way, you pass Lake Shinji, famous for its Shijimi clams. I enjoyed an egg salad sandwich and sacred bunny rabbit snacks bought from a 7/11 at Izumo Station during the ride.

I had a two-hour layover in Okayama, known for its peaches, so I grabbed lunch. I found a quiet restaurant and enjoyed a delicious meal for about $15, served with rice from a traditional rice cooker. Afterward, I boarded the Marine Liner, a double-decker train, for the ride to Takamatsu. The highlight of this journey is crossing the Great Seto Bridge, which offers insane, beautiful views, especially at sunset. The ride across the bridge takes about 10 minutes.

With a four-hour wait for my return train, I decided to rent a bicycle and head to a bathhouse in Takamatsu. It took about an hour to get there. The facility was new, and I enjoyed a lay-flat bath so much that I fell asleep! I had planned to eat dinner afterward, but I ran out of time and barely made it back to the station with three minutes to spare. It was an amazing hot spring experience, despite the rush.