佐渡島の東の果てに浮かぶ『とある島』に行ってみた！衝撃的な景色が…

From Murakami Station, I took the Awashima Shared Taxi to Iwafune Port. It's a convenient and economical option, costing ¥700 one-way, about a third of a regular taxi fare. You need to book about 30 minutes in advance. It's a 20-minute ride, and it's a great way to connect with locals, as the driver and other passengers often know each other.

I boarded the Ferry New Awashima, which has been operating since 2019. The ferry departs at 3:15 PM and arrives at 4:50 PM, taking about 1 hour and 35 minutes. It costs ¥2500 one-way, significantly cheaper than the high-speed boat (around ¥4500). To avoid seasickness, I chose a seat in the middle of the ship and made sure not to be too hungry or too full. The journey offers beautiful views of the mainland mountains, some still capped with snow even in June. The ferry's hull design, with its orange lines, represents the beautiful sunsets over the Sea of Japan.

After arriving at Awashima Island around 4:57 PM, I decided to explore the main Uchiura village area for about an hour before heading to my guesthouse. It's a charming area where locals greet each other warmly, creating a sense of community. I noticed the island's unique 'Iejirushi' (house marks) on tools and buildings, a modern version of family crests. The island's flat areas are limited, a result of a 1964 earthquake that uplifted the land by about 1 meter, creating new space for roads and the port. This area also has the island's only traffic light, installed in 2007 as an educational tool for children before they move to the mainland.

Dinner at Genzamon Inn was a delightful experience, served early at 6:30 PM. It felt unique to have a full meal before extensive sightseeing. The meal featured fresh local seafood, including boiled thread-sail filefish, sea bream sashimi, and two pieces of grilled turban shell. A standout was the fried rock seaweed, a local specialty with a crunchy texture and rich flavor, especially good with butter and rice. I also tried 'Nippon,' Awashima's local potato shochu, named after the local dialect word for 'mother,' reflecting the island mothers' dedication to growing potatoes after the 1964 earthquake changed the island's rice-growing conditions. The shochu is sweet and refreshing. The turban shell, my favorite, had a firm, crunchy texture and a pleasant bitterness from the liver, pairing perfectly with the shochu. The sea bream sashimi was fresh and firm. The meal was a wonderful opportunity to chat with the inn's proprietress, who shared stories of growing up on the island during wartime and the 1964 earthquake.

I rented an electric bicycle from the tourist information center in Uchiura to explore Awashima Island. Electric bicycles are highly recommended due to the island's steep inclines; there are only about 8 available, so it's best to rent one early (I got mine at 9 AM). A 3-hour rental costs ¥1500. The island is about 3 hours to cycle around, but with an electric bike, it can be done in about 2 hours. I cycled counter-clockwise, heading south from Uchiura, then west to Kamaya, and finally north. The eastern coast offers flat roads and clear views of the Japanese mainland, while the western side is windier with unique, wind-swept vegetation. Be aware that vending machines for drinks are only available in Uchiura and Kamaya.

I had lunch at Shokudo Shimaya, a popular local eatery. It's best to arrive before noon, especially on Mondays and Fridays when a ferry arrives around that time, as it can get crowded. I ordered the 'Wappani Teishoku,' a local specialty. Wappani is a hot soup served with a superheated stone inside, keeping it boiling. The stone is removed into a separate bowl before eating. This cooking method originated from fishermen heating stones on the beach to warm their soup. The soup itself is a clear, flavorful broth with various fish (usually two or more types, like thread-sail filefish) and green onions. It's less salty than miso soup, allowing the natural fish flavors to shine. The fish meat is tender and flaky, and surprisingly, the bones are not an issue. The set meal also included fresh sashimi (sea bream and a soft, sweet black fish I couldn't identify), boiled fish, and a highly viscous mekabu (seaweed) with miso, which was incredibly sticky. The entire meal was delicious and a great value at ¥2000.