2 Days in Japan's Dying Town with So Many Abandoned Houses

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2 Days in Japan's Dying Town with So Many Abandoned Houses | Hiwasa

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Explore Hiwasa, a charming, aging town in Tokushima, Japan, known for its sea turtles, nostalgic vibes, and friendly locals. Discover a unique guesthouse, a reservation-only restaurant, and the world's first sea turtle research center.

1 days · 9 places · 3 experiences

Day 1 · 8 places · Hiwasa, Japan

Two Days in Hiwasa: Town Exploration & Local Delights

“This video captures my two-day visit to Hiwasa, exploring its unique charm, from cycling its quiet streets and visiting its famous beach and shrines, to enjoying local cuisine and staying at a traditional guesthouse.”

Experience · 1 place
Cycle through Hiwasa's quiet streets
Rent an electric bicycle for 1,000 JPY (7.00 USD) for two days from the nearby tourist center. It's a fantastic way to feel like a local and explore the main streets, even if many shops are closed. You'll get to soak in the quiet, nostalgic atmosphere of this aging town.
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Hiwasa Town
Minami
3.8 (3)
Creator's voice
Hiwasa is a rapidly aging countryside town in Minami-cho, Tokushima Prefecture, known for its quiet, nostalgic atmosphere and connection to sea turtles. It's part of the Shikoku Ohenro pilgrimage route and offers a glimpse into traditional Japanese life amidst depopulation. You can reach it by car (about 3.5 hours from Osaka) or by JR Mugi Line train from Tokushima Station (about 1.5 hours), though trains are infrequent.
Hiwasaura, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2304, Japan
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Ohama Beach
Beach · Minami
4.4 (1,098)
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Ohama Beach is one of Japan's Top 100 Most Beautiful Beaches and is famous as a nesting ground for sea turtles. However, the number of egg-layings has been declining significantly since 1990, with only one turtle laying seven eggs in 2025.
Ohama Beach, 374-4 Hiwasaura, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2304, Japan
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Hachiman-jinja Shrine
Shinto shrine · Minami
4.3 (120)Closed · opens tomorrow 9 AM
Creator's voice
The town's largest shrine, Hachiman-jinja Shrine, features a grand torii gate and is connected to sea turtles. It attracts believers seeking longevity, safe childbirth, and protection from evil spirits.
Hiwasa Hachiman Shrine, 369 Hiwasaura, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2304, Japan
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Nagomi-ann
Japanese restaurant · Novi
4.5Closed · opens tomorrow 11 AM
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Nagomi-ann is a local restaurant that blends traditional and cafe vibes, preparing meals only for those who have made a reservation beforehand. The menu changes daily, featuring dishes made with local ingredients. It's a perfect spot for a break and to find other tourists in town.
Nagomi Japanese Restaurant, 25750 Novi Rd, Novi, MI 48375
- Today's Lunch Set Meal · ¥1650 — The Lunch Set Meal, priced at 1,650 JPY (11.55 USD), changes daily and features dishes made with local ingredients. My meal included simmered beef with ginger and soy sauce, daikon radish, konjac root vegetable, Nagomi-ann's original karaage fried chicken, sweet potato salad in dashi, and zucchini with kelp. Everything was healthy and delicious, all made by the owner.
- Homemade squash pudding — A delightful homemade squash pudding served as dessert. I loved it so, so much – a perfect sweet ending to the meal.
Experience · 1 place
Visit Yakuoji Temple, the 23rd Ohenro Temple
Yakuoji Temple is the 23rd and final temple to visit in Tokushima for the Shikoku Ohenro pilgrimage. Climb up to its very upper observatory for a fantastic photo opportunity, overlooking the entire town of Hiwasa with the Pacific Ocean and capes in the background, and the Hiwasa River running through the middle. It's a place of scenic beauty and spiritual significance.
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Yakuoji Temple
Buddhist temple · Minami
4.2 (1,889)Closed · opens Tuesday 8 AM
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Yakuoji Temple is Temple No. 23 on the Shikoku Ohenro pilgrimage route, making it the last temple in Tokushima Prefecture for pilgrims. It offers an observatory with panoramic views of Hiwasa town, the Pacific Ocean, and the Hiwasa River. Many lodgings in Hiwasa host Ohenro pilgrims.
Yakuōji Temple, Teramae-285-1 Okugawachi, 美波町 Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2305, Japan
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Hiwasa Castle
Castle · Minami
3.1 (175)
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Hiwasa Castle is a beautiful castle on a mountain overlooking the town. While it is permanently closed to visitors, you can still get close enough to appreciate its exterior. A few years ago, some rooms were opened as a guesthouse, but raccoons and monkeys appearing at night scared guests away.
Hiwasa Castle Ruin, 445-1 Hiwasaura, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2304, Japan
Experience · 1 place
Feed sea turtles at the museum
Visit the Hiwasa Sea Turtle Museum Caretta, Japan's only sea turtle museum, and get the chance to feed the sea turtles. They look very hungry and their slowness is incredibly cute! Hiwasa has been conducting sea turtle research since 1950, making it the first town in the world to do so.
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Hiwasa Sea Turtle Museum Caretta
Aquarium · Minami
4.1Closed · opens tomorrow 9 AM
Creator's voice
Japan's only sea turtle museum, Hiwasa Sea Turtle Museum Caretta, is dedicated to sea turtle research, which began in Hiwasa in 1950, making it the first town in the world to conduct such studies. Visitors can learn about sea turtles and even feed them.
Hiwasa Sea Turtle Museum Caretta, 369 Hiwasaura, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2304, Japan
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Local Supermarket (Hiwasa)
Supermarket · Minami
3.3 (50)Open · until 7:30 PM
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A local grocery store in Hiwasa, just a few minutes from Oyado Hiwasa. It's a great place to find local eats and handmade dishes like Okonomiyaki and Yakisoba, especially if you visit before closing.
Ookita Hiwasa, Benzaiten-16-2 Okugawachi, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2305, Japan
- Instant Okonomiyaki — I picked up a frozen Okonomiyaki from the local supermarket. It comes in a paper tray that doubles as a dish – just microwave it for 5 minutes. It's Osaka's savory pancake, typically made with wheat flour batter, shredded cabbage, and various fillings like pork or seafood, grilled on a teppan.
- Yakisoba — I also got some Yakisoba, which are stir-fried noodles with vegetables and pork. A classic Japanese comfort food.
- Simmered Yellowtail fish — I enjoyed this yellowtail fish, simmered in a sweet and spicy broth made with soy sauce, sugar, mirin, and sake. It was a delicious local find.
- Asahi Fresh Beer Can — This is a unique Asahi Fresh Beer Can that I've shown before. When you open the lid, beer bubbles appear, and the large opening makes it feel like you're drinking from a glass, even though it's a can!
- Fresh Lemon Sour Can — Another next-generation alcohol can where, upon opening, a sliced lemon floats up. It creates a fresh lemon sour experience, like having an Izakaya drink on the spot.
- Cubic sweet from glazed red beans — For dessert, I got a cubic sweet made from glazed, sweetened red beans. It's a traditional Japanese confection, perfect for enjoying some 'Zen times'.

Also in this video

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Oyado Hiwasa
Indoor lodging · Minami
4.7 (77)
Creator's voice
One of the few guesthouses in Hiwasa, Oyado Hiwasa is run by a French sculptor who renovated a 100-year-old house, restoring it to its original state with artistic touches. It offers a cozy, traditional Japanese inn experience. Accommodation is 5,000 JPY (35.00 USD) per person per night, with 4 rooms available daily.
Oyado Hiwasa, Honson-148-1 Okugawachi, Minami, Kaifu District, Tokushima 779-2305, Japan
- Traditional Japanese room — My room upstairs is a traditional Japanese inn room, offering a cozy atmosphere with views of the inner garden. Futons are provided, along with towels and yukata. The owner's son even came to close the window shutters, a traditional Japanese feature.
- Traditional Japanese bathroom — The guesthouse features a traditional Japanese-style bathroom with a bathtub where heated water is already ready. You can enjoy a relaxing soak while admiring a beautiful plaster sculpture of birds flying around Mount Fuji on the wall, created by the owner.