心に残る、あの夏へ。山陰の城下町、津和野で見つけた日本の夏｜島根を巡る鉄道旅｜有福温泉

Wander through Tsuwano's incredibly peaceful and quiet streets, feeling the historical atmosphere. It's amazing how few tourists there are, making it feel like a hidden gem. Notice the subtle change in road color? That's the line separating the commoners' district from the samurai district, where a large gate once stood. It's like stepping back in time.

Follow the sweet, roasted aroma that literally drew us in from the street to a historic local teahouse. Grab a cup of Tsuwano's traditional roasted tea, Zara-cha, known for its subtle, naturally sweet flavor. It's so refreshing and really chilled me out, making the walk around Tsuwano even more enjoyable.

Head to an old traditional house to try Tsuwano's local specialty, 'Uzume-meshi' (Buried Rice). All the delicious ingredients are hidden under the rice! The dashi broth is deeply flavorful, comforting, and incredibly easy to eat. It's absolutely delicious and comes with a piece of Genji Maki.

Walk through the tunnel of a thousand vermilion torii gates at Taikodani Inari Shrine. It feels like stepping into a completely different, mystical world. Most people drive up, but the walk is part of the experience. Once there, draw omikuji fortunes – each little fox figurine has a totally different expression. I got 'Good Fortune' (Kichi)!

Head to Fukusushi, a local sushi restaurant, for an unforgettable meal. You absolutely have to try the grilled Ayu (sweetfish) caught fresh from the local Takatsu River. It's perfectly salt-grilled, with a slight bitterness from the innards that adds a mature, deep flavor – easily the best Ayu I've ever had. Also, indulge in an exquisite Nigiri Sushi Set; the toppings are thick, fresh, and melt in your mouth. This place is an absolute hidden gem!

Experience the nostalgic summer festival vibe of the Toro Nagashi (Lantern Floating) festival. It's a touching story of local high school students reviving this beautiful tradition after years of cancellation. Watching the lanterns float down the Tsuwano River at twilight, with the narrow stair street lit up, feels exactly like the set of Spirited Away. It's a magical night that preserves Tsuwano's traditions.

Tucked away on the hill behind our guesthouse, quietly sits the grave of Mori Ogai. He strictly requested in his final will that his gravestone bear no titles or pen names, only his real name, Mori Rintaro. It's a poignant spot to reflect on his life and legacy.

Take the local train from Tsuwano Station to Aonoyama Station (a 5-minute ride). Head up the path to check out the panoramic view from the top, where you'll see a literal ocean of golden rice fields and distinctive orange Sekishu-gawara roofs. It's absolutely breathtaking, like a quiet village gently floating in a sea of golden rice. Then, walk down into the village itself, which feels like the quintessential, idyllic Japanese farming village, surrounded by lush green tea fields. Rehydrate at Shugoro-en, a charming cafe directly run by local tea farmers. Try their Fruit Anmitsu and premium, freshly brewed local green tea – the flavor is surprisingly deep and rich, with umami spreading across your palate.

Travel to Arifuku Onsen, known as 'The Hot Spring Town Farthest from Tokyo' due to its 8+ hour travel time. This deeply historic, secluded hot spring resort boasts over 1350 years of history. Try the free public hand bath, then head to Gozenyu, the iconic public bathhouse. The water is insanely, intensely hot – a blistering 47°C (116°F) – because they use 100% pure, unadulterated, free-flowing hot spring water without adding cold water. I could only manage to dip my feet in, but it was incredibly refreshing!

Check into Ryokan Nushiya, a luxurious, tranquil retreat hidden deep in the forested mountains, just a 5-minute walk from Arifuku Onsen's main street. We got incredibly lucky with the 'Mystery Room Assignment Plan' and were assigned a premium suite. The room is incredibly spacious, completely surrounded by lush green forest, and comes with its very own private projector theater room with a comfy daybed. Enjoy complimentary local Sake tasting and drinks in the guest lounge, and a masterful Kaiseki dinner course showcasing the finest seasonal Shimane ingredients, including unbelievably tender Shimane Wagyu Beef and freshly harvested local rice. It's a perfect place to escape the world and spend a quiet, deeply relaxing evening.

Take a twilight stroll through the quiet streets of Arifuku Onsen. It's still in that magical hour just before it gets completely dark, and with the lanterns lit up, this narrow stair street looks exactly like the set of Spirited Away. It's a nostalgic and deeply rejuvenating experience.