Inside Japan's Most BRUTAL Prison

Board the Aurora ice breaker ship from Abashiri Port, ideally when there's actual drift ice. Even if there isn't, keep an eye out for 'float ice' or even a rogue iceberg to smash through. We were warned about the lack of drift ice, but we cast off anyway. Grab a wagyu bun for breakfast below deck while others brave the top deck. The boat turns around and smashes through any ice it finds, which is surprisingly exhilarating. It's a one-hour trip out to sea and back, costing ¥2000.

Step inside Abashiri Prison, known as the 'Alcatraz of Japan,' where the government sent its most notorious criminals. It was built in 1890 and closed in 1984, now open to the public. You can see the brutal conditions prisoners endured, including tiny cells with transparent toilets shared by three to five people. Don't miss the story of Yoshie Shiratori, the only man to ever escape, who used miso soup to corrode his handcuffs and cell bars over 15 months, then dislocated his shoulders to fit through a tiny window during a WWII blackout.

Rent an entire log cabin home in Furano, about three hours south of Abashiri, for a special last night of the trip. Be prepared for a tricky front door! Inside, you'll find quirky rooms, including one with green astroturf flooring and swing lights, a sitting room with springy chairs, and a 'David Lynch' themed bedroom with red wallpaper and a red sofa. There's also a bar room upstairs, though all the bottles are empty. It costs ¥4000 for six people, which is a great value.

Head to the beautiful Lake Kanayama for an ice fishing adventure. You'll set up in a cozy tent on the frozen lake, drill a hole, and try to catch fish. The incentive is that whatever you catch will be freshly deep-fried in tempura batter for lunch. It's a competitive and serious activity, as no fish means no lunch! We caught about 15 tiny fish between us, which were then fried up. It was a very fun and crunchy experience, arguably better than the ice breaker ship.