48 Hours in Hiroshima ⛩️ 8 Things to do in Japan's Legendary City

Start at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum for a profoundly disturbing but essential viewing experience that makes you appreciate the destructive power of nuclear weapons. Regardless of how you feel about their use in World War II, seeing what it did to this city makes the use of nuclear weapons truly unthinkable. Then, visit the Atomic Bomb Dome, a poignant reminder of Hiroshima's past, as it was one of the only buildings to survive the blast. To appreciate Hiroshima's rebirth, head to the Orizuru Tower, which overlooks the Dome and offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city's past, present, and future. It feels like a Blade Runner observation deck, looking down on the Dome from a futuristic skyscraper. You can see Hiroshima Castle in the distance and appreciate how the city rebuilt itself from scratch.

Head to Mitchan Sohonten, Hiroshima's most beloved local chain for okonomiyaki. This style of savory pancake is characterized by its crispy soba noodle filling and a complicated cooking procedure. I got to go behind the counter and attempt to make one myself! It's difficult and complex, requiring precise cooking of the thin batter, adding cabbage, crispy squid tempura, and thinly sliced pork, and then the crucial flip. Fortunately, the chef was on hand to help me through the final stages. The rich, tangy Worcestershire sauce, mayonnaise, fish flakes, and noodles create a great combination of flavors, but the crispiness of the noodles truly wins the day. It's a messy dish, not about perfection, but about a big, flavorful, savory pancake that will stuff you up for hours.

Wander through the grounds of Hiroshima Castle, originally built in the late 16th century. While the castle itself was rebuilt after being destroyed by the atomic bomb, you'll be amazed to discover how much of the surrounding nature survived. There's a eucalyptus tree just 740 meters from the hypocenter that survived the bombing. It's a great place for a moment of peace, admiring the trees that endured such destruction. The grounds are genuinely stunning, with a labyrinth of pathways, stone walls, and ponds, offering a relaxing escape from the urban sprawl.

When you're on Miyajima, you need to get some street food. Hiroshima's most famous dish after okonomiyaki is oysters, so I couldn't resist getting a gratin oyster topped with cheese – because if there's cheese on it, it's going in my mouth! The oyster was so fresh, and the cheese beautifully creamy. If oysters aren't your thing, try the beef croquette (korokke), a perfect form factor for street food: nice, convenient, deliciously warm, and filling, especially on a rainy day. I also tried a Haribo gummy lemon rum cider – a weird smell of gummy bears and lots of rum, but it surprisingly works! Just be careful, the gummy bears are frozen and can be hard on your teeth. Finally, don't miss the Tempura Momiji, a battered maple leaf, which is pure battered sugar and incredibly nourishing.

Take a walk up to Daishoin Temple, considered one of the most important temples in Japan. Even before you start the journey up its over 2,000 steps, you're greeted with an almost Ghibli-esque scene of a sea of 500 Jizo statues, meant to protect travelers, with their cute red hats and lifelike expressions. It's quite breathtaking, having been here for over 1,200 years. The temple is ostentatious, with lots of little Buddhas, Jizo statues, and shrines dotted around, making it almost overwhelming but magical, especially with the mist coming through the forest and the rain. You'll also find the Henjokutsu Cave, home to thousands of lanterns and 88 Buddha statues representing the Shikoku pilgrimage, offering a 'pilgrimage speedrun' to get blessings.

No trip to Miyajima is complete without visiting Itsukushima Shrine itself, one of the three Scenic Sites in all of Japan. It does look better at high tide, but they've just finished renovating it after three years. The striking red shrine is absolutely incredible, despite damage from termites, seawater, and even tourists sticking coins into it. I used to think Miyajima equaled Itsukushima, but there's so much more to this island. Still, it never stops being incredible and is definitely worth visiting and seeing for yourself.

Across my many visits to Miyajima, I've seen Itsukushima Shrine from every angle, but tonight I'm blessed to see it from perhaps the greatest angle of all: a hidden bath on the rooftop of the Itsukushima Iroha Hotel. This is ridiculous; I was completely oblivious to this hidden gem. You can't beat sitting in the hot spring, looking over the misty mountains and seeing Itsukushima Shrine like that. It feels unfair, I don't deserve this! Hands down, it's the best view of Itsukushima Shrine.

Round off your day by enjoying a rich kaiseki dinner course at the hotel. You'll be greeted by some of the finest and freshest ingredients from around Hiroshima, including seafood caught from the bay and succulent Hiroshima beef. Earlier today we saw the largest rice paddle on the planet, and now I give you the tiniest micro tomato in the world – it's quite small, but good! Usually, when I come to Miyajima, I'm running for the last ferry, but staying on the island makes it less stressful, allowing you to actually enjoy yourself. It's a shame many people just speed-run to Itsukushima Shrine and leave. I'd love to come back and spend a whole week here, especially if there's roast beef and micro tomatoes.